Tuesday, May 22, 2007

My rant against macrobiotics

I posted this today on a message board at lowcarbfriends.com, in the following thread:

Low Carb Friends > Eating and Exercise Plans > Other Plans

I'm posting it here, too, because I'm kinda psyched about finally writing out some of the things I've been kicking around in my head, and ranting about verbally, for so many years. The first part, in QUOTE tags, was posted by someone who was responding to another LCF member who had harsh criticism of macrobiotics.

...
While Nero's proposed eating plan may be considered macrobiotic, that doesn't mean he can't follow it's general guidelines with success...
...
I still believe it's a workable framework
.....

This is a reasonable point of view. But in this case the general guidelines aren't worth a hill of adzuki beans. Let's take a look at those guidelines and what they're based on.

The macrobiotic diet is a sublimated expression of a xenophobic, racist worldview. The food itself is modeled after an idealized version of monastic Zen dietary practices of the 19th century. Japan was forcibly opened to the West in the 1850s; macrobiotics, in my reading, is part of the inevitable cultural backlash, as it favors all things Japanese are pure and superior.

It was formulated, not by a doctor, scientist or traditional healer, but by a Japanese philosopher who fancied himself to be following in the footsteps of Kaibara Ekken, an influential 16th century neo-Confucianist naturalist and botanist.

As jem says, everything in macrobiotics is seen through the filter of yin and yang. Correct diet is a nurturing balance of polar opposites. Understanding how different foods have different qualities of yin and yang is the essence of the macrobiotic diet. In fact, diet is (supposedly) just a single aspect of macrobiotic practice. It's also about your physical activity, your emotional state, the climate where you live, the season, your relationships with others.

For instance, someone who does manual labor (yang) in Canada (yin, cold) would need a difference balance of yin and yang in their diet than someone who has a sedentary lifestyle (yin) in Florida (yang).

The foods that are available in a given place and time also fit into yin and yang. Fruit (yin) grows in the summer (yang). Tropical fruits (super yin) grow in the tropics (more yang than a temperate zone summer).

Since the world is so big, and the range of human activity is so great, and there are so many kinds of natural foods, you might expect a wide range of dietary possibilities. As long as you create a harmonious balance of yin and yang in daily life -- which includes diet -- you're practicing macrobiotics. Right? Wrong.

In practice, there is a very narrow range that is sanctioned as good, balanced eating. In fact, the word "wide" is commonly used in macrobiotic community parlance as a synonym for "bad"; correspondingly, "narrow" is used to mean "good."

At any rate, everyone's individual dietary balance of yin and yang, even when determined by a "macrobiotic consultant" who reads the lines on your face and shapes of your features to figure out what you should and shouldn't eat, comes out looking pretty much the same. Mostly grains, a lot of beans, a little fish, some pickle, seaweed, vegetables. By the way, the percentages are generally done by volume, not caloric contribution. 25% vegetable means that a quarter of your plate is covered in kale, for instance. Or, in winter, the same volume of butternut squash. (But not spinach -- spinach is bad. So are regular button mushrooms. Too yin. More on this sort of thing later.)

And, by astounding coincidence, it all just happens to consist of traditional Japanese food. The best grain for you: rice. Should you eat animal protein? Some fish is OK.

By another astounding coincidence, all of the foods that are bad for you come from Japan's traditional cultural enemies. Here are some of the foods that are overly yin: tomatoes, potatoes, red peppers. Corn is not so great, either. Notice what these have in common? All are "New World" crops, forced into Japan in the 19th century.

Garlic and red pepper are considered far too extreme for human consumption. Note that garlic and red pepper are an important part of the cuisine of Korea, which has long been looked down on as inferior by (the worst part of) Japanese culture.

Yet, wasabi (that superstrong Japanese horseradish) is good. Even though it's at least as "extreme" to eat as garlic and red pepper. Wasabi cleanses toxins. It's a powerful healing food. Ask why wasabi is good and red pepper is bad, and you get a complex answer about their individual yin/yang makeups. It's like this all through macrobiotics. The answer comes first, and the justification follows. And every single time, the bad thing is not part of Japanese tradition, but the good thing is. (New world beans and squashes are a notable exception -- although Japanese adzuki beans and Hokkaido pumpkins coincidentally happen to be the most healthful beans and squashes of all.)

Raw salads: Bad! Very yin! Rice? Good! Wheat? Better left out entirely. The worst way to eat wheat: as bread. Beef, milk, cheese: Terrible, the worst! They leads to all kinds of disease. Based on what? They're all way too yang. What makes them more yang then salty fish paste? Or pickled plums? Oh, by the way, all the bad things listed here are part of the European culinary tradition. What a coincidence!

The justifications for the macrobiotic guidelines are just incoherent. Brown rice turns out to be the perfect food for all humans, wherever they live, through every season. Even though one of the stated foundations of the diet is local and seasonal food, somehow rice manages to transcend these boundaries. In the U.S., rice grows in the southern states, like Carolina and California, but not in, say, New England. So why did the macrobiotic leaders in Boston live primarily on rice? Why did they counsel my spiritual community in Pennsylvania to base its diet around rice? I asked. The answer: because we're at the same approximate latitude as Japan, where rice grows well. So, I asked, people in southern Mexico would not base their diet around rice? Same with people in Iceland? The answer: they should eat mostly rice, too, because it creates the best yin/yang balance in the human body. But I thought we were balancing with our environment and physical activity level? The answer: Oh, yes, absolutely!

Cirtus fruits were verboten: too yin. I asked, how about people in Florida and California -- they can eat citrus, right? Answer: no, because it's an introduced crop in this continent. I asked: Like rice? Answer: well, here in the U.S., there are types of wild rice. Me: But they're botanically very different from the rice we're eating. Answer: But the yin/yang balance is very similar. So, the people who live where citrus comes from, can they eat citrus? Answer: very, very small amounts. It's very yin and extreme.

It's like a complicated equation that, no matter what you plug into the front, it always comes out the same on the other end.

So. Guidelines? You want guidelines? Macrobiotics has plenty of them. A "workable framework"? Sure, if you overlook the fact that it's not built around any of the nutritional understanding that we take for granted on these boards. If you're looking for guidelines that make any sense, you could do far better elsewhere. You might check out Sally Fallon's Nourishing Traditions, for instance, if what appeals to you is whole foods including whole grains, with an introduction to many nearly forgotten, but eons-old, preparations.

Is there anything good to be gained from looking into macrobiotics? Actually, yes. Many of the dishes and cooking techniques are really quite excellent. Many of the ingredients open up a lot of culinary possibilities. Also, macrobiotic followers have kept alive many traditional Japanese food products that, in mainstream Japan, have been replaced by artificial analogs.

For example, tamari and miso. I never seen good ones in Asian groceries, and I've been looking for decades. It's sad, but all you can find there is caramel-colored or quick-aged soy derivates, often with artificial flavorings. But at the natural foods store or aisle, you can find the real thing, aged for months or years, according to traditional methods.

Another wonderful thing to learn from a macro book or cooking class: a wide variety of vegetable cutting techniques and preparations. There are so many cutting shapes, and each has its own name. It's very Japanese, in a beautiful way. It's one of those intricate, precise cultural arts, like origami, sushi or flower arranging.

Nero, I hope some of this is helpful. In your first post, you presented a description of macrobiotics. Did you write that, or where did that come from?

Thursday, April 12, 2007

Toatch!

A new word for Ulysses this past weekend was toast -- or, as he pronounces it, "toatch." He puts a hard "tch" on the end of lots of his words: "boatch" for boat, "mootch" for move, and so on. Lot of other words, he puts a "k" or "g" at the front end: "guck" for truck, "guck" for duck, "guck" for stuck, "gock" for sock, "cock" for clock. All these words sound almost alike to our ear. I've made the joke that if his truck were to be stuck under a clock in the shape of a duck wearing socks, he could tell the whole story in a single word.

Saturday morning I had the idea to toast some bread and give it a generous coat of cream cheese. I cut it into eight pie wedges, and arranged them into a pointy jumble on the plate. I brought it to him with the enthusiastic announcement, "Toast!" It was a big hit. "Toatch?" he said, inquisitively at first. Then toast was in the repertoire for easy things to make that U likes to eat, with protein and other good things, when it's covered in cream cheese, anyway.

Yesterday after I came home from work, U led us to the window. He pointed outside, into the windy snowstorm that had been raging all day, repeating, "Toatch! Toatch! Toatch!" I couldn't figure it out. Was he saying "snow"? "Snow!" I repeated -- or thought I was repeating. But it didn't seem like the satisfactory response. "Toatch," he insisted. "Toatch, toatch, toatch!"

Then Donald pointed out the roof of the house next door. Its flat black edge peeked out from under a generous, white, fluffy coat. "It looks like toast. With cream cheese."

"Toatch!!" exclaimed Ulysses, happy to be understood, at last.



Monday, March 5, 2007

Fish!



Ulysses drew this picture on his magnetic doodle pad, then took it to show Donald, saying, "Fish!" So Donald snapped a photo, and sent me Internet chat at work to tell me about it. I was so excited, I told everyone in the room, and I couldn't wait to get home and see my little boy's first picture!

Saturday, February 17, 2007

3rd birthday party

Ulysses turned three years old on Friday, Feb. 16! We had a party on Saturday. Ulysses wore his birthday suit.

Click on the cake to see lots of pictures. I recommend you click on the Slideshow tab after clicking on the cake. It will take some minutes for the slideshow to cycle through, what with all the movies and all. Enjoy!

2007_0217 3rd birthday party


Le Menu

  • Corn Dogs
  • Macaroni and Cheese
  • Pepperoni Pizza
  • Birthday Cake


Everything made from scratch, of course.

The culinary theme was kid food. We wanted to serve food that U would actually want. The only thing he ate all evening, though, was a PBJ. And cake.

Corn Dogs

We worked on this recipe for days! We were so far off at first that we decided we'd better eat corn dogs at every meal until we got it right, so we wouldn't run out of time. That's a lot of corn dogs. We started out with a recipe from a book called "Street Food" that we got at a yard sale a summer or two back. Great book, goes international! Can't find it on Amazon, or I'd give the link.




The final version included stone ground corn meal (gives a nice crunch), masa harina (gives a nice fresh-tortilla-like scent) and flour. The dogs are speared with a craft stick, then dusted with cornstarch and dipped in batter made with the dry ingredients above, plus a bit of salt and baking soda, an egg, and our wonderful homemade buttermilk. Macaroni and Cheese: We used a recipe from the April-May 2005 issue of Cooks' Country, the new publication from the makers of Cooks' Illustrated. Love it, love it. The recipe was a low-fat version. Boy, was it good, and luscious and filling, too! Where it said skim milk, I substituted whole milk. It didn't seem quite cheddary enough, so I doubled the cheddar. The crumb topping didn't seem buttery enough, so I doubled the butter. The white sauce didn't seem to call for enough butter, so I doubled that from the start. That sure was great low-fat mac 'n' cheese!




Pepperoni Pizza

Don made this. We've used lots of recipes; this one was also from the glorious "Street Food." Started with flour, yeast, warm water, olive oil, salt, made dough, let rise. Used pizza sauce we had frozen from a month or so back, made with I don't even remember what. Some form of tomatoes in a can, seasonings, salt. Topped with shredded mozz and sliced pepp. What else do you need?


Birthday Cake

I worked from The Cake Bible for this one. Fabulous cake -- yellow with chocolate frosting. I've never eaten better cake in my life. I plan to post separately about the cake adventure.

We also planned to make guacamole and serve Breyer's vanilla ice cream in cones, but people were somehow too stuffed.


The culinary theme was kid food. I wanted to serve food that U would actually want. The only thing he ate all evening, though, was a PBJ. And cake.

Monday, February 12, 2007

Glossary

What does Ulysses say? Here's a glossary, in approximate reverse order of development. That is, the higher up on a list the word appears, the more recently it's appeared.

Word                          Translation (as needed)
/First appearance

Feb 07

cake                 
         frosting, sweet treats

nana
                         any food on a stick
                                 (extension of "ice cream" meaning)

mamo
                          mambo

cold

geghh
                        pig

bowl

ho-tch
                       hot

cake

ha-tch
                       hat

Eh...eh-cue!
                  Buzz Lightyear to the rescue!

(siren wailing)

(airplane motor humming)

us-sai down
                  upside down

(vacuum cleaner humming)


Jan 07

Mac
                          Max (from kid show Max & Ruby)

Buh-tch
                      Buzz (Lightyear)

ko-ket
                       chocolate

ee-MOKE
                      remote control

nana
                         ice cream (replaced "neen")

shoe

I you!
                       I see you!

No go!
                       Don't go!

moo
                          cow mooing (replaced "moo-ah")

(duck quacking)

(horse whinnying)


Dec 06

booo-k
                       book

cheeza
                       pizza

cheee
                        cheese

Eh! Keekee!
                  ?????

neen, I neen
                  ice cream

nana
                         banana

buh-bol
                      bubble

you're welcome

abble
                        apple

akuka
                        yabuka (Serb. "apple")

moo-ah
                       cow mooing

Help! Me help!
               Help me!


Nov 06

Mama

boo-boo
                      any spot that got hurt

fish, shish
                  fish

Here go
                      Here you go


Sometime 06

choo-choo

(Train on tracks: "chika-chicka-chicka...")

(tickling: "ticka-ticka-ticka-ticka...:")

Po! Po! Po! Poke! Poke! Poke!

(during poke and tickle play)

All gone (replaced "ah gum")

All done

Ook! Atah! Look! (?????)

cookie

Yay!

ah-tah
                       hot dog

How do? How do you do?

doll

hello

(blowing)
                    hot, fire, candles

Ta too!
                      Thank you

omomo
                        ajdemo (Serb. "let's go")

akika
                        patika (Serb. "slippers")

(cat meowing)

(mouse squeaking)

(fish saying "blub-blub-blub")

(dinosaur and big cat roar)

Eh, teh, go!
                  Ready, set, go!

Go!


Sometime 05

Oh, no!

dai-dai
                       bye-bye

ook! look

ah gum
                        all gone

uh-oh

(blowing)
                     too hot to eat

Dada

no
                             (replaced "note")

note no

cracker